Up in the morning after a decent lie in and off to the Atlantic coast to have breakfast with family. Then a walk down the huge empty sand, and coffee at either end. There are parts of this island that can look like the end of the world, particularly here at the west side.

By lunchtime I was back in St Helier, and off we went to Mont Orgueil Castle at Gorey. It is a looming yet squat monster, redundantly hanging over the east side of the island, unused now and when will it be used again? A castle. Don’t try and invade us. We are Norman. We will conquer the large land to the north with our arrows and horses, and populate it with more castles to make it ours forever.

Knowing Will and Kiera, I figured that the best place for the last of the light was La Hougue Bie. This is one of the greatest assets of Jersey and nobody in the island gives a fuck. It’s a Neolithic tomb, over 7000 years old, designed to catch the light at equinox. the stones and the path to the omphalos still have weight and power. Christians have put a chapel on top much as they tried with Glastonbury. Nothing wrong with syncretism – Westminster Abbey is entirely on the footprint of Thorney Island, the most important druid school in the ancient world, teaching a great deal more than obedient subservience to a higher power.
It’s built around. Space is at a premium in Jersey. A road passes right by the entrance.
Nevertheless the power is undeniable. We were only there a moment. It once more led me to realise how, growing up in Grouville, I was exposed to seriously ancient things without even knowing. The hill I lived on is right by an ancient dolmen. The guys who turned my first home into a multimillion pound romanesque … thing… they likely secretly dug through inestimably ancient tombs to make their swimming pool.
We didn’t take the baby inside.

Evening took us to St Brelade and a church built to respond to the sea, with an old fisherman’s chapel where once there was something pre-poseidonic. Again with the syncretism. These places are still so strong that if you are listening you can feel the weight of the ages. That place punches you in the sea gut. I’m gonna aim for midnight mass there at Christmas, to sing new songs in an old place.
Then dinner with an old friend, and remembering the faith that opened it all for me back here back then. The trust in a higher power. A wonderful thing when detached from arrogance and control.
All said, a very curious and largely delightful day off.







