We got up early and drove out to Harper’s Ferry. Joanna is big into her history and knows the blow by blow of the civil war in this nation. We followed behind. Here was the Confederate Armoury. John Brown, the great abolitionist fighter, made a daring optimistic plan. Raid the armory, give all the guns to the slaves and tell them they’re free, instant army.
It didn’t work like he planned, because people don’t have context on themselves. He could see that they were oppressed. They just saw some guys in stupid hats blowing shit up in the town they were slaves in. There are big monuments made by the confederacy to various slaves that fought off the unionists that day.
It’s a pretty town, pretty much the mid point on the Appalachian Trail, from Maine to Georgia. I’ve been aware of that trail a long time. It’s low on my list compared to Shikoku and other iterations of Camino, but that’s largely down to where it is. There’s all sorts of bullshit American hikers romanticising their walk. It takes six months to do the whole thing, so I get the impetus. But the only God on that trail is nature so often the people I read who write about it think they are the God. I prefer a walk with external spirits, be they kami or holy. If I were to walk the whole trail I would likely adopt some animistic rituals to keep me honest. Likely I’d bring some shinto. There are some hilarious posts on Camino groups by idiot Catholics horrified about cairns. We really need as a species to get more private with our pretendy things. But they become pretendy clubs with exclusive entry. YOU CAN’T JOIN UNLESS YOU BELIEVE THE WORLD IS A CARROT! YOU CAN’T JOIN UNLESS YOU THINK JESUS WAS THE SON OF THE DIVINE! YOU CAN’T JOIN UNLESS YOU THINK ONIONS ARE ACTUALLY EVIL ROCKS! We can play this crap forever and we will and everyone who ever dies expecting something is thankfully going to be too dead to register their disappointment.
We walked a tiny sliver of the trail, technically from West Virginia to Maryland. Which involves looking at a rock and then walking over a bridge.
Then to Antietam. A killing field. The wind was up, this is a battlefield, it was punishingly cold. We covered it though. As with many American monuments, it is a driving route with stops. Makes it easier for the people who have eaten too much sugar. It was preluded by an excellent video, that helped us understand the slaughter that took place there, right when warfare was changing. Like the charge of the light brigade, like much of the first world war, generals marching soldiers into guns. Here’s the cornfield where loads of people got slaughtered. Here’s the sunken road where loads of people got slaughtered. Here’s the bridge where loads of people got slaughtered.
The emancipation proclamation was spurred on by this horrendous battle. The whole civil war was really just about slave ownership. It’s good it went the way it did. We are going backwards again in terms of thought.
