I used to always have a little tub of Patum Peperium in the fridge until one of my flatmates went to war with it. I’d get home, eventually notice it wasn’t there anymore, replace it, a few weeks later I’d notice it wasn’t there again. At first I assumed he was thinking it must have gone off. Eventually I confronted him on it. “It’s disgusting”. “I like it.” “It stinks the fridge out.”
Had he not been so insistent on purging it, there might have been enough for a few years in the back of my fridge tonight when, as I’m driving down to Brighton, Radio 4 gives me some of the most BBC news it could possibly give me. Patum Peperium is no more.
The era of fish and meat paste is long gone. When I was at school we had spam with our ploughmans. Once a week we had corn beef hash and I used to like it. Mum would fry us up cod roe on a Friday. Every restaurant served paté as a starter. That one has had a resurgence lately. Taramasalata hasn’t though. It’s always chicken liver, never fishy unless it’s mackerel.
Before Twitter died there was lovely parody account purporting to be an enthusiastic intern espousing the delights of Shippam’s #PASTE. I’m pretty sure that the guy who was pretending to be Ben the social media intern chose that particular product because there’s something a little lost, a little esoteric about fish paste these days.
Back to Gentleman’s Relish though, “spicy paste” It’s a very good umami ingredient though, “Patum Peperium”. Strong strong salty anchovy paste. Bit of warm brown toast, butter and a tiny amount of the stuff. You get call it a meal. I often did. But never again.
Sic Transit Gloria Pati
A website called NineLife is already trying to flog a pot for over £200. Other places like Uber Eats haven’t caught on and are offering for cost but will cancel all orders as they’ll be inundated. I’ll be sticking my head into a few posh delis and Waitroses in the hope I can snag a last ever pot. I almost bought one a few weeks ago in Brighton. Might still be there but unlikely. It’s been in the Guardian. “Charlie, quick, get in the Daimler and bring a basket, we’re going to Waitrose!”
The paste is no more. It is an ex paste.
You can just use anchovies to replace it in sauces I guess. It lasts longer but… Some sauces a tiny pinch gave it umami, but nam pla is everywhere nowadays so people can use that instead as it lasts as long. And there are other anchovy pastes, but not with the secret blend of herbs and spices…
I will miss thee, oh weird fishy rusky paste.
But only very occasionally. Which is why it died I guess. One pot lasts five years and more.